Ceramic Cooktop Repair
Ceramic hob and cooktop repair: EGO Hi-Light elements, energy regulators, relays and cracked-glass replacement. Bosch, Electrolux. Not induction.
Ceramic cooktops fail in a few predictable ways: a Hi-Light element burns out and one zone goes cold, the energy regulator drifts and the zone no longer holds temperature, relays on the control board pit so the zone either never turns off or never turns on, or the glass cracks from an impact.
Worth flagging up front: ceramic is NOT induction. A ceramic panel heats with a resistive Hi-Light ribbon under the glass and regulates power through a classic thermostat or a relay-driven board — no IGBTs, no pan detection. The diagnostic path is entirely different, and a service that treats them the same usually cannot fix yours.
We work on Bosch PKE and PKF, Siemens ET, Electrolux, AEG, Gorenje, Whirlpool, Candy, Beko and Zanussi. A single-zone failure almost always comes down to a single part — an EGO or Kanthal-equivalent Hi-Light, an energy regulator, or a relay — and swapping that one part is dramatically cheaper than a new cooktop. Cracked glass we also replace. If both the glass and the electronics have gone and the combined price approaches a new unit, we say so.
Diagnosis is free, estimate agreed before any work, 3-month warranty.
Popular models we repair
- Bosch PKF645B17E (Series 4)
- Bosch PKE645CA1E
- Siemens ET645HN17E
- Electrolux EHF6547FXK
- Electrolux EHF96547FK
- Gorenje ECT641BSC
- Whirlpool AKT 8090 NE
- Candy CH64CCB
- Beko HIC64402T
- Zanussi ZEV6340FBA
Common problems we fix
- One zone not heating — burnt-out Hi-Light or spiral heating element
- Cracked or shattered glass-ceramic surface — replacement required
- Energy regulator (classic thermostat) no longer controls the power
- Touch panel unresponsive or erratic — sensor module failure
- Control-board relays click but zones do not energise
- Thermal protection stuck — zone overheats or fails to start
- Dual-zone (oval) switching does not work — relay or switch fault
- Residual-heat indicator does not light or will not turn off
Detailed problem guides
Pick a symptom — we walk through the causes, what you can check yourself, and when to bring it in.
Ceramic cooktop heating element and control electronics repair
The heart of a ceramic cooktop is the Hi-Light element — a flat metal ribbon laid into a ceramic dish beneath the glass-ceramic surface. When a zone stops heating, the cause is almost always one of two things: the Hi-Light has burned out (infinite resistance) or the energy regulator that cycles power on and off has failed. We measure the resistance — a typical 1800 W Hi-Light reads around 30 ohms — and if the element is open we fit a new EGO or Kanthal part of the correct rating and diameter.
On older models the energy regulator is a classic electromechanical thermostat with a bimetallic contact, which we replace with an original or compatible part. On more recent panels an electronic control board with relays handles everything: relays wear out, contacts pit, and a zone either never turns on or never turns off (the zone overheats). Relay replacement with soldering is a relatively simple job that fully restores the control board. Sensor modules in the touch panel rarely fail on their own — the usual culprit is a worn rubber gasket that lets moisture under the glass.
Glass-ceramic surface replacement and repair economics
A glass-ceramic surface is resistant to heat but not to impacts. If a heavy pot lid or a glass mug falls onto the cooktop, the surface can crack or shatter directly over one of the zones. We replace the glass panel — ordering an original or a high-quality compatible from the manufacturer, dismantling the cooktop, disconnecting every electrical link, fitting the new glass together with its gaskets and reassembling everything. We then test each zone, regulator and thermal protection thoroughly.
Repair economics: replacing a Hi-Light, a regulator or a touch panel is typically 3–4 times cheaper than a new cooktop, depending on the model. A glass replacement is more expensive but usually sits at half to two-thirds of the price of a new unit, so it is still a worthwhile repair. However, if the glass has cracked AND the electronics have failed at the same time (a rare combination, but it happens), the two repairs together can approach the price of a new panel. In those cases we talk to you honestly and recommend a new unit if that is the better economic call. Our equipment and experience since 1993 let us accurately judge where repair still makes sense and where it no longer does.
Pricing & warranty
Fast on-site diagnostics. Warranty: 3 months.
If the repair cost changes during the process, the technician will call to agree on the new price. No work is done without your consent.
Frequently asked questions
Why customers choose SATER
- Built-in and freestanding appliances. We repair both — built-in ovens, hobs and microwaves.
- Ovens, cookers, microwaves, coffee machines — all under one roof. One service centre for all your kitchen and household appliances.
- Original and compatible spare parts. We use OEM parts or proven alternatives — depending on the task and budget.
- 30+ years of experience. The service centre has been operating since 1993.
- We serve all of Latvia. Electronics service centre in Riga — we accept devices from anywhere in the country.